Sai Kung is unusual in that its villages possess more churches than temples. This is due to the vigorous passion of missionaries like Father Volonteri, an Italian priest who tramped this peninsula in the 1860s, long before the New Territories were leased to Britain. Many residents then converted to Catholicism. While the liturgy was conducted in Latin, the European priests often learnt Hakka to communicate with the local people.
As you walk beside the wide rivulet to enter Sai Wan, its small ruined church can be seen in undergrowth to your right. The peaceful village makes a living these days from providing drinks to passing hikers; three or four cafes are open, selling the usual range of beer, tea, noodles and fried rice. One of the elderly restaurateurs has a broad Mancunian accent as a result of working in England as a youth, formerly a common practice among New Territories villagers.
No sign of an economic downturn here. Business is stimulating and village, especially on weekends, offers a choice of sea view restaurants with expanded menus and supplements its income by renting beach supplies. There are two beaches, both with lovely stretches of sand. The trail leads through the village to cross a bridge and heads north over the rocks and then through tall grasses which back the wide beach, bounded by a tidal creek. Pools lie upstream. At the far end, you're obliged to turn inland to cross the bridge - unless the tide is out, in which case you have direct access to the mounting coastal path.
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